44 Sustainable Fabrics and Materials for Clothing & Fashion

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James Miller
By 
James is an environmentalist, sustainability expert and senior editor at TheRoundup, specializing in testing non-toxic, organic and eco-friendly products. James, his wife and two daughters believe in chemical-free and zero-waste living. They aim to leave the planet in a better state than we found it, for future generations to enjoy.
James Miller
Updated: March 25, 2025

Sustainable fabrics are textiles made from renewable, biodegradable, recycled, or low-impact materials, without the use of toxic chemicals or virgin plastics. They are used by ethical fashion brands to create durable clothing that doesn't pollute the environment.

Fast fashion does the opposite. A staggering 60% of new clothing items are made from synthetic fabrics containing plastic. 87% of it ends up in landfills, where it takes centuries to break down and leaches toxic chemicals into our soil and waterways.

If you choose clothing made from sustainable textiles, you can help reduce landfill waste, conserve resources, and lower carbon emissions. You also avoid greenwashing and other questionable marketing tactics used by unethical manufacturers.

Below, you'll find a list of 44 sustainable fabrics, including plant-based fibers, animal-derived textiles, leather alternatives, recycled synthetics, and biofabricated innovations..

Sustainable fashion materials such as organic cotton, TENCEL™ Lyocell, Piñatex, and ECONYL® are durable, biodegradable, and comfortable. Best of all, they're made in an environmentally and socially responsible way that protects rather than harms our planet.

Plant-Based Fibers

Plant-based fibers are textiles derived from plant sources (including leaves, stems, or seeds) instead of animal or synthetic materials.

Popular examples include organic cotton, linen, hemp, and bamboo, all of which are used to create yarns that manufacturers transform into environmentally friendly fabrics.

Not all plant-based fibers are sustainable (for example, conventional cotton is not considered sustainable due to its intense water consumption). With certain plants, such as cotton or linen, it is essential to check that they are organically grown, which confirms that no synthetic pesticides, herbicides, or fertilizers were used during cultivation.

The following plant-based materials are considered sustainable. In each case, I'll explain why this is, how eco-friendly clothing brands use them, and how to confirm they're genuine.

The most sustainable plant-based fabrics

Organic Cotton

Organic cotton is grown from non-genetically modified plants without using synthetic chemicals such as pesticides or fertilizers.

The organic cotton farming and growing process uses 91% less water compared to conventional cotton.

Check that cotton products carry either GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) or OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON certifications to confirm it's organic, or for Fair Trade Certified to show it's ethically sourced.

Organic cotton is ideal for activewear and underwear because it's breathable, absorbs moisture, and does not stick to your skin or generate static. It lasts longer than conventional cotton if cared for properly and softens over time, which is why it's a popular material for t-shirts, tops, dresses, pants, skirts, and babywear.

Clothes made from organic cotton dry more slowly than synthetic alternatives, and cost more because the crop produces lower yields and requires certification.

Recycled Cotton

Recycled cotton, also called upcycled or regenerated cotton, is a resource-efficient fabric that's made from discarded textiles. It has a lower carbon footprint than newly farmed organic or conventional cotton, according to the Textile Exchange's Preferred Fiber and Materials Market Report 2022.

Check for certifications such as the Global Recycled Standard (GRS) and Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) to confirm genuine recycled content. It's also worth looking for OEKO-TEX Standard 100 or Bluesign® certification to verify that fabrics are free from harmful chemicals.

Recycled cotton retains the breathability and softness of virgin cotton. It is lightweight, comfortable, and suitable for everyday use in items such as t-shirts, hoodies, tote bags, and scarves. Unlike synthetic materials, it does not shed microplastics when washed.

The fibers of recycled cotton weaken with each recycling cycle, so it is sometimes blended with stronger materials to maintain durability.

Organic Linen

Organic linen is made from flax plants, nearly all parts of which are used during production. It is biodegradable, recyclable, and does not contribute to long-term textile pollution.

Look for GOTS-certified organic linen to confirm that the flax was grown and processed without the use of chemicals or toxic dyes.

Organic linen is a breathable and durable fabric ideal for summer clothing such as shirts, dresses, trousers, and lightweight suits. Its strength is one of the factors that make it a particularly sustainable clothing material because it simply lasts longer than other materials.

The main downsides of organic linen are that it sometimes feels a little stiff when it's new (this is due to pectin, a naturally occurring substance) and that, as with all organic materials, the cost of certification makes it more expensive than conventional linen.

TENCEL™ Lyocell

TENCEL™ Lyocell is made from wood pulp, primarily from eucalyptus, beech, and spruce trees, using a closed-loop system that recycles over 99% of solvents.

All TENCEL™ Lyocell carries Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certification, which confirms that the wood pulp comes from sustainably managed forests.

The smooth texture and moisture-wicking properties of TENCEL™ Lyocell make it ideal for garments worn close to the skin, such as activewear and underwear. The fabric feels like silk and resists wrinkles. It drapes well, regulates body temperature, prevents odor buildup, and is gentle on sensitive skin.

Although the complex production process makes TENCEL™ Lyocell more expensive than alternatives like cotton and standard viscose, it's much more sustainable and hardwearing than either.

ECOVERO™

Lenzing ECOVERO™ is a man-made fabric with a manufacturing process that generates up to 50% fewer carbon emissions and requires half as much water as standard viscose, according to Higg MSI.

ECOVERO™ meets high environmental standards throughout its life cycle and carries the EU Ecolabel as proof. It uses wood pulp sourced from responsibly managed forests, as verified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC).

Fashion brands use ECOVERO™ to make dresses, blouses, skirts, and lightweight tops because of its softness and fluid drape. It retains color better than TENCEL™ Lyocell, and its smooth texture and breathability make it well-suited for scarves, linings, and loungewear.

ECOVERO™ is less durable than synthetic fabrics like polyester. It shrinks if not washed correctly and develops wrinkles if not stored carefully.

Bamboo Lyocell

Bamboo lyocell comes from bamboo pulp and is manufactured using a closed-loop process that recycles solvents and water. Bamboo grows quickly without pesticides or fertilizers and requires significantly less water than cotton. Bamboo plantations absorb 12 tons of CO₂ per hectare every year.

Look for bamboo lyocell with FSC and OEKO-TEX Standard 100 labels to confirm responsible sourcing and the absence of harmful substances.

Clothing brands use bamboo lyocell because it is exceptionally soft, lightweight, breathable, hypoallergenic, and antibacterial. These characteristics make it well-suited for t-shirts, loungewear, pajamas, dresses, and underwear.

Despite its advantages, bamboo lyocell is more expensive than cotton and standard viscose and requires special care to prevent wrinkling and shrinkage.

Bamboo Linen

Bamboo linen, sometimes called bast bamboo fiber, is produced by crushing bamboo stalks, breaking down the fibers with natural enzymes, and spinning them into yarn.

I recommend looking for FSC and OEKO-TEX Standard 100 labels to show you're buying ethically sourced, high-quality bamboo linen that's free of harmful substances.

Clothing brands use bamboo linen to make shirts, dresses, trousers, lightweight outerwear, and scarves because it is breathable, durable, and naturally antibacterial. It feels soft like cotton and wicks moisture more effectively to keep you comfortable in warm or humid conditions.

Sustainable growing and production practices mean that bamboo linen is more labor-intensive and expensive than chemically processed bamboo fabrics. It wrinkles easily and requires more maintenance than cotton.

Organic Hemp

Organic hemp is made from the stalks of the hemp plant (Cannabis sativa) grown without pesticides or synthetic fertilizers. The plant improves soil health by replenishing nutrients and preventing erosion.

Many sustainable brands are embracing hemp, and one (Patagonia) has partnered with Hemp Fortex and launched a 'bring hemp home' project in Colorado to encourage domestic production in the USA.

Organic hemp is commonly used in shirts, trousers, jackets, dresses, and accessories such as bags and hats because it is strong, breathable, long-lasting, and naturally antibacterial.

Although hemp can feel a little rough initially, it softens with each wash without losing durability and resists UV rays, mold, and bacteria, which keeps your clothes smelling fresher for longer..

Ramie

Ramie is a natural cellulosic fiber extracted from the Boehmeria nivea plant, also known as China grass or grass linen.

It's a highly sustainable plant that doesn't require pesticides and can be harvested three times per year without depleting resources.

Ramie is well-suited for warm-weather clothing such as shirts, blouses, dresses, and trousers, because it's naturally stain resistant, absorbent, dries quickly, and regulates temperature.

Nettle Fiber

Nettle fiber is a natural textile manufactured from the stalks of the Urtica dioica plant, more commonly known as stinging nettle.

Stinging nettles grow quickly without pesticides, thrive in poor-quality soil, and reduce the demand for fertile agricultural land.

Look for GOTS certification to make sure nettle fibers have been processed without sodium hydroxide (caustic soda), chemical softeners, and acid treatments, all of which have been known to irritate sensitive skin.

Don't worry, the nettle sting doesn't transfer to the material. Nettle fiber is smooth and has a texture similar to silk and wrinkles less than linen. It is highly absorbent and provides natural insulation.

PANGAIA partnered with Candiani Denim and Himalayan Wild Fibers to create a nettle denim collection featuring jeans and jackets.

Abaca (Manila Hemp)

Abaca, also known as Manila hemp, comes from the Musa textilis plant, a species related to the banana tree. The Musa textilis plant regenerates after harvesting and matures within 18 to 24 months. Replanting is needed about every ten years, according to Britannica.com.

Look out for FSC and OEKO-TEX Standard 100 logos to make sure you get responsibly sourced and non-toxic abaca.

Abaca fiber is highly absorbent, antibacterial, and naturally resistant to mold and mildew. Its lightweight but firm texture makes abaca ideal for structured fashion garments like handbags, hats, and footwear.

Large-scale production of Manila hemp is challenging because it is difficult to weave, which makes abaca less common than other plant-based sustainable fabrics.

Orange Fiber

Artisan clothing manufacturers make orange fiber from citrus peels sourced primarily from the juicing industry. Italy alone produces more than 700,000 tons of citrus peel waste every year, according to Knowledge Hub from Circle Economy.

Orange fiber will qualify for OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certification if the final product is free of harmful substances. GOTS will also apply if the orange peels come from certified organic sources.

High-end designers like Salvatore Ferragamo use orange fiber for garments such as scarves and evening dresses because it absorbs dyes well and offers a luxurious drape. Some orange fiber fabrics contain natural citrus oils infused with vitamins A, C, and E, which transfer to the skin during wear.

Orange fiber needs to be blended with other materials to boost durability. Its limited availability makes production expensive because it relies on citrus byproducts and specialized extraction methods.

For these reasons, it's more common to find scarves and cold-weather wear made from sustainable animal-based fibers.

Animal-Based Fibers

Sustainable animal-based fibers come from animals raised using humane, ethical practices that protect animal welfare.

Although they are unsuitable for vegans, animal-based fibers are considered sustainable because they provide renewable, biodegradable textiles used in fashion and clothing for their insulating properties, durability, and comfort.

Animal-based fibers are made from hair and wool (such as Merino wool, Cashmere, and recycled wool), secretions (such as peace silk), plumulaceous feathers, or pennaceous feathers—all of which can be done without harming the animal.

Most sustainable animal based fibers

Merino Wool

100% Merino wool (from Merino sheep) biodegrades 95% within 15 weeks when buried and releases nitrogen and carbon into the soil, according to The Woolmark Company.

Contrast this with synthetic fabrics that shed microplastics, and it's obvious why Merino is considered a sustainable alternative.

You can verify the authenticity of Merino wool (both standard and sustainable organic wool) by looking for certifications such as Woolmark, Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), Soil Association, ZQ Merino Standard, Climate Beneficial by Fibershed, and Certified Organic Wool.

Sustainable fashion brands use Merino wool for its softness and moisture-regulating properties. The fibers are finer than traditional wool and do not cause itching. As a result, Merino wool is a popular choice for base layers, activewear, knitwear, and luxury garments.

Merino wool costs more than synthetic fabrics, but don't be tempted to buy cheaper, uncertified variants to save costs. Some producers still use mulesing to produce Merino wool, a painful practice banned in New Zealand but still common in Australia.

Cashmere

Cashmere is a soft fiber made from the undercoats of Cashmere goats in Mongolia, China, India, and Iran. Goats shed their undercoat naturally each spring, according to Monticelli Cashmere, which means herders can collect the fibers without shearing.

Certifications for sustainable Cashmere include Woolmark, Kering Standard on Cashmere, Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA), and Good Cashmere Standard® (GCS).

Clothing labels use Cashmere in knitwear, scarves, coats, gloves, pajamas, and accessories. Its warmth-to-weight ratio, breathability, and moisture absorption provide insulation without bulk.

Cashmere costs more than most natural fibers due to limited supply and labor-intensive production. The fiber is delicate and sometimes prone to pilling, so make sure you wash and store it carefully to prevent moth damage.

Recycled Wool

Recycled wool, also called reclaimed, regenerated, or shoddy wool, comes from discarded wool garments, textile scraps, and manufacturing offcuts.

All these materials that would otherwise go to waste are sorted, cleaned, and mechanically shredded into fibers before being respun into new yarn.

The methane and nitrous oxide emissions created by sheep account for up to 75% of wool's environmental impact, according to Carbonfact.com. Reusing existing fibers lowers the carbon footprint because no "new" sheep are needed to produce recycled wool.

Manufacturers use recycled wool in sweaters, coats, scarves, and suits. Luxury brands like Italy's Manteco produce recycled wool that retains traditional wool's warmth, breathability, and texture.

You should look for certifications such as the GRS and the RCS when shopping for recycled wool as proof that it has been produced sustainably.

Be aware that the mechanical recycling process shortens fibers compared to virgin wool, and as a result, some recycled wool fabrics contain fiber blends that alter softness and elasticity. When this is the case, you need to check what fibers the wool is being blended with to be certain of its sustainability.

Alpaca Wool

Alpaca wool comes mostly from alpacas raised in Peru, Bolivia, and Ecuador. There are two types: Huacaya, which is smooth and fluffy, and Suri, which is silkier and often used in woven fabrics.

Alpacas have soft, padded feet that (unlike other species) don't cause soil erosion, according to the Australian Alpaca Association. They thrive in harsh landscapes and have minimal environmental impact due to their gentle grazing habits.

Alpaca wool qualifies for certifications such as the Responsible Alpaca Standard (RAS), Woolmark, RWS, and Climate Beneficial by Fibershed when it meets standards for product quality, humane treatment, sustainable grazing, and fair labor conditions.

Manufacturers use alpaca wool for knitwear, sweaters, scarves, coats, and blankets. It provides warmth without bulk and is naturally water-resistant. Alpaca wool is ideal for sensitive skin because it is smooth, hypoallergenic, and lanolin-free compared to sheep's wool.

Lower-quality alpaca wool tends to feel coarser than premium grades, and improper care causes shrinkage. Premium grades are more expensive than most natural fibers due to limited supply and labor-intensive processing, but worth the extra cost.

Camel Wool

Camel wool is a soft, insulating fiber obtained from Bactrian camels in Mongolia, China, and Russia. During the molting season, these camels naturally shed their undercoats, and herders collect the lightweight fibers without shearing them.

Camels have a comparatively low environmental impact because they emit less methane than sheep ("Methane Emission by Camelids," Dittmann et al. 2014). Like alpacas, camels have padded feet that minimize soil erosion in fragile ecosystems.

Look for the Woolmark Licensing Program to determine the quality of camel wool fabrics.

The warmth-to-weight ratio of camel wool is similar to Cashmere and perfect for coats, jackets, scarves, blankets, and knitwear. Camel wool is an excellent choice for sensitive skin because it is breathable, lanolin-free, and hypoallergenic.

Camel wool is expensive and feels coarser than Cashmere, but it's hard to beat in terms of sustainability.

Yak Wool

Yak wool is a soft, insulating material made from the undercoats of yaks in the Himalayan regions of Tibet, Mongolia, Nepal, and China. Like camels, yaks naturally shed their wool in spring, so they do not need to be sheared.

Yaks stabilize highland ecosystems through their natural grazing behavior that prevents single plant species dominance, soil aeration from their hooves that improves water infiltration, and nutrient cycling from their dung and urine that enriches otherwise nutrient-poor high-altitude soils ("The adaptive strategies of yaks to live in the Asian highlands," Jing, et al. 2022).

The sustainability of yak wool is certified by RWS, Woolmark, Certified Organic Wool, Certified Animal Welfare Approved, the Certified Humane® Label, Fibershed's Climate Beneficial, and the Soil Association Organic Standards.

Thanks to its softness and breathability, yak wool makes excellent sweaters, scarves, shawls, and high-performance outdoor garments. It feels softer than sheep's wool, insulates better than Merino wool, and breathes more easily than Cashmere. It also resists pilling better than other natural fibers and offers long-lasting durability.

The only downsides are that Yak wool is expensive (but no more so than other sustainable fabrics) and needs special care to maintain its incredible softness and durability.

Peace Silk

Peace silk, also called Ahimsa (non-violent) silk, is an ethical alternative to conventional silk that protects animal welfare. Traditional silk production kills silkworms, which are boiled to extract silk fibers, whereas peace silk lets silkworms complete their life cycle and emerge naturally.

You will find certifications such as GOTS, OCS, World Fair Trade Organization (WFTO), National Program for Organic Production (NPOP), and Silk Mark Organisation of India (SMOI) on genuine peace silk products.

Peace silk, with its soft texture and matte finish, is suitable for scarves, lingerie, bridal wear, and evening gowns. It is breathable and moisture-wicking and can be woven into various fabrics, including satin, chiffon, twill, tweed, and jersey.

Concerns remain about labor conditions in the sericulture (silk farming) industry. Peace silk improves silkworm welfare, but human working conditions are not always as fair.

Plumulaceous Feathers (Down)

Down is a natural insulating material made from the soft underfeathers of ducks and geese. Unlike regular feathers, down has no rigid quills.

Some down meets high certification standards that promote animal welfare and traceability. The Responsible Down Standard (RDS) prohibits live plucking, molt-harvesting, and force-feeding of birds. The Global Traceable Down Standard (Global TDS) verifies sourcing from farm to final product. Recycled down may carry GRS certification.

Clothing manufacturers stuff down into jackets, coats, vests, and gloves because it is breathable and effective at retaining warmth.

Down loses its insulating properties when wet, so make sure any down you buy has not been chemically treated to add water resistance.

Pennaceous Feathers

Pennaceous feathers, also known as contour feathers, are the structured, rigid feathers found on the wings and tails of birds.

The RDS and Global TDS certifications mainly cover down but may extend to pennaceous feathers within the same supply chain.

Designers use feathers in statement garments such as dresses, skirts, and jackets. Feather trims and embellishments add a luxurious touch to tops, trousers, and loungewear. Hats, clutches, and shoes often feature feathers for added glamour and sophistication.

Pennaceous feathers are durable, lightweight, and decompose naturally. They are a natural alternative to synthetic decorations and help reduce reliance on plastic-based textiles.

Pennaceous feathers are less versatile than down in clothing due to their rigidity. They lack insulation and become brittle over time if stored improperly, so their purpose is largely aesthetic rather than practical.

Vicuña Wool

Vicuña wool is among the rarest and most luxurious natural fibers. It comes from the vicuña, a wild South American camelid native to the Andean regions of Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, and Chile.

Vicuña wool is regulated under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES), which restricts the fiber trade to prevent poaching and overexploitation.

Luxury sustainable brands use vicuña wool for garments such as coats, scarves, and suits because it does not need chemical softening and is suitable for sensitive skin.

Vicuña wool requires delicate care to prevent damage from friction and improper washing. Its rarity and labor-intensive harvesting make it one of the world's most expensive textiles, with items often costing tens of thousands of dollars.

We've looked at wool, silk, and feathers, but one traditionally animal-based material we haven't covered yet is leather.

I say traditionally because recent innovations in sustainable fabrics have also seen the introduction of so-called "alternative leathers," which are sustainable fabrics that don't actually contain any animal products at all.

Leather & Alternative Leathers

Traditional leather comes from the hides of cattle, sheep, goats, pigs, and species such as alligators and ostriches. That makes it renewable, but traditional leather is not always sustainable, particularly when it is chrome-tanned.

Chrome tanning accounts for up to 90% of global leather production ("Benefits and problems of chrome tanning in leather processing," Md Dipu Ahmed et al., 2021). It is an environmental disaster that heavily pollutes water systems, soil, and air.

Sustainable alternatives such as upcycled leather or vegetable-tanned leather negate the environmentally harmful effects of chrome tanning, but still remain animal-based.

Alternative leathers are innovative materials designed to mimic the look, feel, and durability of traditional animal leather using plant-based sources (like pineapple leaves, apple peels, cactus, mushrooms, or grapes) and have the added benefit of being suitable for vegans.

Sustainable leather alternatives

Upcycled Leather

Upcycled leather is made from reclaimed scraps, factory offcuts, and post-consumer products. Upcycling preserves the original leather structure, reduces waste, uses little water, and prevents the harmful effects of chrome tanning from new leather production.

The key upcycled leather certifications you should look for include the Leather Working Group (LWG), GRS, RCS, OEKO-TEX® LEATHER STANDARD, Sustainable Leather Foundation (SLF), and the Institute of Quality Certification for the Leather Sector (ICEC).

Upcycled leather retains traditional leather's durability, flexibility, and luxurious feel and features in fashion items such as handbags, wallets, footwear, belts, jackets, and accessories.

Color, texture, and consistency variations make mass production of upcycled leather difficult, but it is still possible to produce genuine leather goods using sustainable practices.

Vegetable-Tanned Leather

Vegetable-tanned leather is treated using tannins derived from plant sources, such as tree bark, leaves, and fruits. This traditional method has been used for centuries to produce durable, biodegradable leather without the toxic chemicals found in conventional tanning.

Vegetable-tanned leather meets the LWG standards for environmental performance and, when made in Tuscany, qualifies for certification from the Genuine Italian Vegetable Tanned Leather Consortium (Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata Al Vegetale). It also meets the criteria set by the IVN Natural Leather Standard, which evaluates the entire production cycle.

The sustainable fashion industry uses vegetable-tanned leather (which it also calls eco-leather) for belts, handbags, shoes, wallets, and luxury accessories. Its natural grain, rich patina, and earthy aroma make it visually and texturally distinctive, and it's also breathable (whereas chemically tanned leather is not).

Vegetable-tanned leather is less water-resistant than chrome-tanned leather and requires more maintenance. Its longer processing time and higher labor costs make it more expensive. Color options are limited to natural tones, and its stiffness makes it unsuitable for some flexible clothing, for which pineapple leather is a better alternative.

Piñatex (Pineapple Leather)

Piñatex is a leather alternative developed by Dr. Carmen Hijosa and produced by Ananas Anam. It's made from pineapple leaf fibers (a pineapple industry byproduct) blended with a corn-based polylactic acid.

Every linear meter of Piñatex produced prevents the equivalent of 12 kg of CO₂ emissions, according to the manufacturer.

Piñatex is PETA-approved vegan, certified by The Vegan Society, and REACH-compliant. The pigments in Piñatex meet GOTS certification, and its resins comply with AFIRM standards. Ananas Anam is a Certified B Corporation.

Alternative leather manufacturers use Piñatex because it is flexible, lightweight, and breathable. Hugo Boss launched a range of vegan men's shoes with Piñatex uppers, and Nike created the Air Force 1 '07 SN, which features Piñatex.

Piñatex is less durable than hide leather and needs extra treatment for longevity. It is water-resistant but not completely waterproof.

Apple Leather

Apple leather, also called AppleSkin, Frutmat, or Pellemela, is made from apple peels and cores from the fruit juice industry.

The production of apple leather consumes less energy and emits less CO2 than animal leather or plastic-based synthetics, according to RiveClaire. It also avoids the environmental and ethical issues associated with animal farming and leather tanning.

Apple leather is PETA-approved vegan, and OEKO-TEX certified non-toxic.

Some experimental designers use Apple leather for jackets and skirts, but due to its structure, breathability, and resistance to stains and water, it is primarily used in accessories and footwear.

One major drawback of apple leather is that it is not fully biodegradable, because it contains polyurethane and synthetic resins, so it's not as eco-friendly as Piñatex.

Cactus Leather (Desserto®)

Manufacturers make cactus leather, commercially known as Desserto®, from the mature leaves of the Nopal cactus (Opuntia ficus-indica). Farmers harvest the leaves without harming the plant, so it regenerates naturally.

Nopal cacti require 200 liters of water per kilogram of biomass, which is significantly less than the 17,100 liters per kilogram used by cattle leather production, according to UNESCO-IHE. Cactus leather manufacturers sun-dry the harvested plant matter in a solarium rather than using high-energy dryers to reduce Desserto®'s carbon footprint.

Desserto® is PETA-approved vegan.

Major fashion retailers, including Adidas, H&M, Fossil, and Karl Lagerfeld, have incorporated Desserto® into their collections, most commonly for handbags, shoes, wallets, and belts.

Unfortunately, Desserto® is not fully biodegradable because it contains synthetic binders and coatings that prevent complete decomposition. It is not recyclable and usually ends up in landfills or incinerators.

Mushroom Leather (Mylo™)

Mushroom leather, sold as Mylo™ by Bolt Threads, is crafted from mycelium, the root structure of fungi. Mycelium rapidly grows into a soft, flexible material that replicates the look and feel of genuine leather.

Mylo™ is cruelty-free and grows in a farming facility powered by 100% renewable energy. It grows in two weeks, while animal leather takes several years, according to the manufacturer.

Eurofins | Chem-MAP and DIN CERTCO certify Mylo™ based on its renewable material content and reduced environmental footprint.

Stella McCartney successfully incorporated Mylo™ into luxury handbags and Adidas made vegan Stan Smith trainers with Mylo™ uppers.

As of mid-2023, Bolt Threads has paused operations for its Mylo™ leather alternative due to a lack of funds to scale production, but you will still see it in upcycled and second-hand clothing.

Wine Leather (Vegea®)

Vegea® is a wine leather made from grape skins, seeds, and stalks left over from winemaking. It mixes the dried pomace with vegetable oil and a water-based polyurethane dispersion (PUD) and coats the blend onto a cotton backing.

34.1 million tonnes of grapes were grown for wine production in 2022, according to the International Organisation of Vine and Wine. Vegea® repurposes some of the waste from the wine industry.

Vegea® carries GRS certification for its recycled content and environmentally responsible manufacturing.

Fashion brands use Vegea® for clothing, shoes, bags, and accessories. Calvin Klein produces vegan leather sneakers made with Vegea®, and H&M features it in its sustainable collections.

Disappointingly, like cactus leather, Vegea® is not fully biodegradable due to its polyurethane content.

SCOBY Leather

Symbiotic Culture of Bacteria and Yeast (SCOBY) leather, also known as kombucha leather or bacterial cellulose, is produced from a cellulose film that forms during kombucha fermentation. It is dried and then processed into a dense mat of durable fabric resembling traditional leather.

SCOBY leather is backyard compostable and decomposes in a domestic compost heap within months, according to material scientist Theanne Schiros, PhD.

Suzanne Lee has promoted SCOBY leather through her Biocouture research project and BIOFABRICATE company. Designers use it in handbags, wallets, shoes, and small garment details.

Coconut Leather (Malai)

Coconut leather, also known as Malai, is made by fermenting waste coconut water with specific bacteria. This creates a creamy jelly-like cellulose substance (the name "Malai" means "cream" in Hindi), which is then combined with natural fibers like banana or hemp to form a flexible, leather-like fabric.

Malai is an eco-friendly material that will biodegrade naturally within 90–120 days in standard compost conditions. It uses renewable waste materials and does not contain toxic chemicals, plastic, or animal-derived ingredients.

Coconut leather is PETA-certified vegan.

Designers use Malai to make stylish handbags, wallets, notebooks, and footwear. It closely resembles traditional leather and develops a soft sheen or patina over time.

MIRUM®

Natural Fiber Welding (NFW) developed MIRUM® as a sustainable, plant-based alternative to traditional leather. It's a sustainable fabric made from natural ingredients such as rubber, plant-based oils, agricultural waste (rice hulls and coconut fibers), minerals, and natural pigments.

MIRUM® has a carbon footprint approximately ten times lower than animal leather, according to the manufacturer. It biodegrades fully and leaves no harmful microplastics or chemical residues behind.

MIRUM® has received the USDA 100% Biobased Certification for its first commercial collection.

Sustainable clothing brands, including Allbirds, Ralph Lauren, Stella McCartney, and Pangaia, use MIRUM® to produce footwear, bags, accessories, and outerwear. The material looks and feels like genuine leather. It allows designers to achieve high-end aesthetics and durability without environmental drawbacks.

MIRUM® is a relatively new and premium-priced fashion material that lacks the widespread availability of traditional synthetic and animal-derived leathers.

As demand for sustainable alternatives grows, fashion brands and consumers also turn to recycled and regenerated synthetics to create durable, eco-friendly textiles.

Recycled & Regenerated Synthetics

Recycled and regenerated synthetic fibers are made from post-consumer or post-industrial waste and reduce the environmental impact caused by producing virgin petroleum-based textiles.

Traditional synthetic clothing uses fossil fuels and generates high levels of pollution. Recycled and regenerated fibers reduce harm to the planet by repurposing waste and using fewer resources.

Common waste sources for recycled and regenerated synthetic fibers include PET from plastic bottles, which manufacturers convert into recycled polyester, and discarded nylon from fishing nets, which becomes ECONYL®.

Recycled & Regenerated Synthetic Fabrics

Recycled Polyester (rPET)

rPET comes from post-consumer PET bottles, discarded textiles, and industrial plastic and is produced by collecting, sorting, cleaning, and shredding plastic waste into flakes. Manufacturers melt and spin the flakes into recycled polyester fibers using heat and pressure.

Recycled polyester requires 59% less energy than virgin polyester, according to a 2017 Swiss Federal Office for the Environment study.

Look for GRS and RCS certifications to verify the recycled content and traceability of rPET. Some rPET can also be certified through programs such as Intertek Recycled PET Certification and QIMA rPET Testing, which evaluate sustainability claims and verify compliance.

Sustainable activewear brands use rPET for its excellent moisture-wicking properties and wrinkle resistance. It is also commonly used by top recycled clothing brands for swimwear, jackets, linings, faux fleece, and outerwear.

Mechanical recycling weakens rPET fibers over time, so there is a limit to how many times you can reuse them. Like all synthetic fibers, rPET does not biodegrade, but it's still a far better option than having those bottles floating in the ocean.

ECONYL® (Recycled Nylon)

ECONYL® is a regenerated nylon fiber developed by Italian company Aquafil, made from discarded fishing nets, fabric scraps, carpet flooring, and industrial plastic.

The key benefit of ECONYL® is that it can be recycled multiple times without losing quality. It is produced in facilities powered by 100% renewable energy sources, including hydroelectric and wind power. Producing 10,000 tons of ECONYL® conserves 70,000 barrels of crude oil and prevents 57,100 tons of CO₂ emissions, according to econyl.com.

Recycled nylon has a 90% reduction in global warming potential compared to virgin nylon, according to the Environmental Product Declaration (EPD) for ECONYL®.

Luxury brands such as Gucci and Stella McCartney have incorporated ECONYL® into their collections. It blends well with materials like spandex and is ideal for high-performance sportswear, sustainable swimwear, and hosiery.

Upcycled Deadstock Fabrics

Upcycled deadstock fabrics are surplus textiles, including overproduced stock, unused fabric rolls, and discontinued materials. Unlike recycled textiles, which require reprocessing, manufacturers repurpose deadstock fabrics in their original form.

Making a new pair of jeans takes 2,000 gallons of water. Upcycling waste fabrics decreases water consumption, energy use, and carbon emissions compared to producing new fabrics.

While upcycled fabrics may originate from materials certified by organizations such as OEKO-TEX Standard 100, GOTS, or FSC, they rarely retain verified certifications once they enter the deadstock market. That means you need to research the brands using them a little deeper to ensure they're genuinely eco-friendly.

Upcycled deadstock fabrics allow designers to create unique, limited-edition pieces. Coalatree Organics produces durable upcycled clothing, and Christy Dawn designs vintage-inspired dresses made from high-quality deadstock fabrics.

The main challenge for fashion brands is that the supply of deadstock fabric is inconsistent, and large-scale production is challenging. Since these materials are often remnants from past collections, they may not meet seasonal trends or specific brand color schemes.

Tencel™ Refibra™

TENCEL™ Refibra™ is a popular sustainable fabric made from a combination of wood pulp from responsibly managed forests and pre-consumer cotton scraps from garment production.

The closed-loop TENCEL manufacturing system recovers and reuses 99% of solvents and requires 95% less water than conventional cotton production. It is fully biodegradable and decomposes within months instead of persisting for centuries like polyester, according to Trimco Group.

The recycled cotton content of TENCEL is authenticated by the RCS, and Lenzing AG (the developer) has an FSC chain of custody (CoC) certification. In 2002, Lenzing became the first fiber producer worldwide to receive the EU Ecolabel.

TENCEL™ Refibra™ drapes well and feels smooth. It's commonly used to make premium denim pieces, such as those featured in Mavi's Recycled Blue Collection.

You can expect to pay a slight premium for TENCEL clothing, as the fabric is 20-30% more expensive than conventional cotton. Most require specific care instructions, such as gentle washing cycles and lower temperatures.

As of April 2024, Lenzing has temporarily halted production of TENCEL Lyocell fibers due to a shortage of high-quality recycled pulp, but it remains widely used in existing sustainable fashion trends.

RENU®

RENU®, developed by ITOCHU Corporation, transforms discarded clothing, fabric scraps, and post-industrial polyester waste into high-quality recycled polyester.

Compared to regular polyester production, RENU® cuts CO₂ emissions by up to 59% and reduces water usage by approximately 47%, according to a 2023 RENU® environmental impact statement.

Some RENU® products, such as Champion Thread Company's Renu™ line of 100-percent recycled industrial sewing threads, carry OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certification.

RENU® offers moisture-wicking performance, flexibility, and durability. These qualities make it ideal for activewear and everyday clothing. RENU® has excellent dye-ability comparable to virgin polyester, which prevents color inconsistencies between production batches (a common issue in mechanical recycling).

The availability of RENU® raw materials depends on waste collection infrastructure, so supply chain limitations affect large-scale availability.

While RENU® represents a step forward in reducing polyester waste, it remains a synthetic material with recycling challenges. As brands and manufacturers push for more sustainable solutions, biofabricated and innovative materials are becoming popular.

Biofabricated & Innovative Materials

Biofabricated materials come from living organisms or grow through controlled biological processes that rely on bacteria, fungi, or yeast to create fibers that mimic natural properties.

Other so-called innovative materials include textiles made from food waste, biodegradable polymers, or high-performance recycled fibers.

Biofabricated and innovative materials offer significant sustainability benefits, such as reduced resource consumption and lower carbon footprint. However, true sustainability depends on multiple factors, including energy use, scalability, and end-of-life impact.

CIRCULOSE®, Bananatex, and SeaCell™ are three popular examples of biofabricated and innovative materials used in modern-day clothing and fashion.

Sustainable Biofabricated & Innovative Materials

CIRCULOSE®

CIRCULOSE® is manufactured by the Swedish company Renewcell, entirely from discarded textiles. The production process uses 100% renewable energy and follows a closed-loop system that minimizes waste, according to The Textile Think Tank.

The production of CIRCULOSE® has been certified by the RCS version 2.0 since June 19, 2023. This certification is important because it verifies that CIRCULOSE® is made from 100% recycled materials.

The fashion industry uses CIRCULOSE® as a feedstock for regenerated cellulosic fibers such as viscose, lyocell, modal, and acetate. In November 2020, H&M committed to replacing virgin fiber with CIRCULOSE®-based materials. Another big name, Levi's, has used CIRCULOSE® to produce its 501 Original jeans.

CIRCULOSE® fibers are soft, breathable, and absorbent. The material drapes well, offers durability, and maintains the moisture-wicking properties of natural cotton.

The exact CIRCULOSE® production process remains a trade secret, which prevents a full assessment of its environmental impact.

Bananatex®

Bananatex® is an example of a commercially viable use of abaca (Manila hemp), as discussed earlier. The Swiss company QWSTION developed Bananatex® with yarn specialists and weaving partners in Taiwan. It is fully biodegradable to international standards EN 13432 and ISO 14851.

Balenciaga has partnered with Bananatex® to create an eco-friendly version of its iconic Triple S sneakers. Parley for the Oceans and Sky High Farm Universe have collaborated on a collection that uses Bananatex® materials.

Bananatex® is water and UV-resistant and is ideally suitable for outdoor and wet-weather clothing, but it is not as widely available as conventional natural fibers and is expensive to source.

SeaCell™

SMARTFIBER AG's SeaCell™ is a textile fiber made from sustainably harvested seaweed and wood pulp. It uses the Lyocell process, a closed-loop system that recycles 99.5% of water and solvents.

The wood pulp used to make SeaCell™ comes from eucalyptus and beech trees certified by the FSC, and the finished fiber meets OEKO-TEX Standard 100.

Lululemon was one of the first companies to use SeaCell™ in the early 2000s with their VitaSea line, which blends SeaCell™ with cotton and spandex.

SeaCell™ fabric is ideal if you have sensitive skin because it is soft, breathable, hypoallergenic, and offers a UPF 50+ rating.

The only potential concern is that while seaweed is renewable, large-scale harvesting can negatively impact marine ecosystems if not done sustainably.

Soy Silk

Soy silk, also known as vegetable cashmere, is made by extracting proteins from soybean hulls. Manufacturers then liquefy these proteins and spin them into fibers through a wet-spinning process similar to that used to produce viscose.

Soy silk has a texture similar to silk and Cashmere, with a luxurious drape and natural sheen. Fashion brands use soy silk in luxury clothing, lingerie, activewear, and blended fabrics.

Soy silk is resistant to wrinkles, absorbs moisture efficiently, and regulates temperature. It also takes dye well and has good resistance to ultraviolet radiation.

Not all soy silk is eco-friendly, though, because in some cases the production processes involve chemical treatments such as alkali or formaldehyde to improve fiber durability and texture.

Spider Silk

Spider silk is a natural protein fiber that spiders use to strengthen their webs, capture prey, and provide protection. Its main proteins, spidroins, make spider silk highly structured and durable.

The exceptional strength, elasticity, and biodegradability of spider silk theoretically make it a promising high-performance textile for sustainable fashion.

Spider silk is not yet commercially viable because farming spiders isn't feasible due to their aggressive and territorial nature. Producing one ounce of golden spider silk requires approximately 23,000 spiders.

Researchers are investigating alternatives such as Microsilk, but don't expect to see natural spider silk on the high street any time soon.

Microsilk™

Bolt Threads developed Microsilk™, a lab-engineered fiber that mimics natural spider silk through fermentation. It uses yeast infused with spider silk DNA, sugar (typically derived from corn), and water. Technicians isolate, purify, and spin the silk protein into fibers.

The Microsilks fermentation-based process reduces harmful chemicals, water usage, and energy consumption. It also lowers CO₂ emissions, according to the Center for Green Chemistry & Green Engineering at Yale.

Well-known sustainable fashion brands have sought to utilize Microsilk™ for its high strength-to-weight ratio, elasticity, and biodegradability. Stella McCartney collaborated with Bolt Threads to create a Microsilk dress displayed at the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) in New York.

Due to development costs reaching millions of dollars per kilogram, Bolt Threads has decided to discontinue Microsilk™ for now, but some existing garments remain in circulation.

Qmonos

Qmonos is a synthetic fiber developed by the Japanese company Spiber Inc. It mimics natural spider silk by fermenting genetically modified bacteria to create fibroin. The name "Qmonos" comes from the Japanese word kumo-no-su, which means spider web.

The North Face and Spiber collaborated to produce the Moon Parka, a high-performance, lightweight prototype jacket made from Qmonos.

Qmonos currently has high production costs and limited availability in mainstream consumer markets.

The synthetic spider silk market is projected to grow from $2.58 billion in 2025 to $11.65 billion in 2035, according to Roots Analysis. This sharp projected growth indicates that eco-minded consumers like you are embracing sustainable fabric and materials for clothing and fashion.

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James Miller
James Miller
James is an environmentalist, sustainability expert and senior editor at TheRoundup, specializing in testing non-toxic, organic and eco-friendly products. James, his wife and two daughters believe in chemical-free and zero-waste living. They aim to leave the planet in a better state than we found it, for future generations to enjoy.
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