Viscose is a semi-synthetic fabric made from wood pulp transformed through chemical processing. It was designed to provide silk-like drape and softness without the high price tag.
The fashion industry often markets viscose (also known as rayon) as a more sustainable fabric compared to nylon, polyester, or cotton. But is this true?
Not all viscose is created equal. Yes, some is sustainably sourced and manufactured, but over 70% of viscose is not actually eco-friendly at all.
So if you want to make greener choices, you'll need to know how to tell the difference.
Below, you'll learn how viscose is made, its environmental impact, its pros and cons, how it's used, and how it compares to other fabrics.
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Viscose is made from cellulose extracted from wood pulp, which is typically sourced from fast-growing trees like eucalyptus, bamboo, beech, and pine.
The manufacturing process transforms this natural material into a semi-synthetic fabric through a chemical process. Wood pulp is first treated with sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) to create alkali cellulose. This substance is then processed with carbon disulfide to form cellulose xanthate.
After dissolving the cellulose xanthate in more sodium hydroxide, the resulting viscous orange liquid gives viscose its name. This solution is then forced through tiny holes called spinnerets into a sulfuric acid bath, which causes the liquid to solidify into viscose fibers that can be spun into yarn.
The finished product retains the cellulose structure from its wood origins, but the degree of chemical processing involved means viscose is not classified as a natural fabric.
Viscose is not a natural fiber. It's classified as a man-made cellulosic fibre (MMCF), also known as a semi-synthetic or regenerated cellulosic fiber.
Though derived from natural wood pulp, the chemical processing fundamentally alters its structure. The transformation through sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide creates a material that differs significantly from its natural origins.
That's why viscose is different from both natural fibers like cotton and synthetics like polyester.
The chemicals and water used during viscose production explain why there are doubts regarding whether viscose can be classed as an eco-friendly fabric.
Viscose is more environmentally friendly than some other textile materials, such as polyester, but there are still concerns regarding its sustainability. It can be eco-friendly, but that depends on where and how it's made.
The majority (70%) of conventional viscose is not sustainable.
Less than 30% of global viscose is sustainably sourced ("The Ongoing History of Harm Caused and Hidden by the Viscose Rayon and Cellophane Industry", Am J Public Health, 2018).
The report also describes the following sustainability concerns surrounding the viscose production process.
Viscose rayon's environmental impact varies significantly depending on the raw materials used and its manufacturing process.
It is possible to get sustainable viscose if you're careful about who and where you buy from.
Closed-loop production systems recycle up to 99% of processing chemicals. Viscose made from either bamboo or FSC-certified, responsibly sourced wood pulp does not cause deforestation.
Viscose is biodegradable because of its cellulose base. Under the right conditions, viscose decomposes naturally within around 6 weeks.
Be careful if you plan to compost viscose at home, because studies have shown it to be toxic to earthworms, with a mortality rate of 80% ("Are Biobased Microfibers Less Harmful than Conventional Plastic Microfibers: Evidence from Earthworms," W. Courtene-Jones et al, 2024).
For this reason, it is better to recycle viscose than to compost it.
Viscose fabric itself is not toxic to humans. There is no scientific evidence to suggest any health risks to consumers from everyday use.
However, there are toxicity concerns with viscose relating to its manufacturing process.
Viscose rayon production poses significant occupational health hazards primarily related to carbon disulfide exposure, as documented in Paul David Blanc's book "Fake Silk: The Lethal History of Viscose Rayon."
Carbon disulfide is essential to conventional viscose manufacturing, but it has been scientifically linked to serious neuropsychiatric disorders, cardiovascular diseases, and increased mortality among factory workers.
Blanc chronicles how epidemiological studies by researchers like Schilling, Morris, and Mancuso documented clear associations between carbon disulfide exposure and deaths from heart disease.
Despite these potential environmental concerns, viscose remains popular in the textile industry due to several compelling advantages.
The main benefits of viscose rayon fabric are that it's cheap, soft, breathable, and versatile.
Here are the main benefits of viscose that explain its popularity in the textile industry.
These qualities mean that viscose is ideally suited for clothing, home textiles, and other applications where comfort, appearance, and affordability are important.
Viscose is generally considered hypoallergenic because its smooth structure and lack of scales, which characterize natural fibers like wool, mean that it is less likely to cause allergic reactions than other types of fabric.
People with sensitive skin or conditions such as atopic dermatitis derive more benefit from cellulose-based fabrics such as viscose compared to wool, cotton, or silk ("Fabric Selection in Atopic Dermatitis: An Evidence-Based Review, "Jaros et al, 2020).
However, individual reactions vary, and some people may be sensitive to residual chemicals from the manufacturing process or to dyes and treatments applied to the finished viscose fabric.
Although skin sensitivity is unlikely to be a concern for most people, there are other disadvantages to viscose that you should be aware of.
The main environmental disadvantages of viscose (chemical usage, water usage, and potential deforestation) have already been discussed. As a fabric, viscose rayon is less durable and harder to care for than other materials.
The main disadvantages of viscose are as follows.
These limitations explain why viscose is often blended with other fibers to improve its performance characteristics while retaining its desirable properties, such as softness and drape.
Despite these limitations, viscose's unique combination of properties makes it valuable across numerous industries and applications.
Viscose is a highly versatile fabric with a range of uses, including clothing, bedding, home textiles, medical products, and beauty products.
Viscose creates flowy dresses, blouses, and skirts that drape elegantly around the body.
It's ideal for lightweight summer clothing because it's breathable and has a soft, smooth texture. And because it's easy to blend with warmer materials, it's also used for transitional and layering pieces.
Some of the biggest eco-friendly fashion brands are using sustainably sourced viscose for its silk-like appearance at a budget price point.
In homes, viscose is used in bedding, curtains, and upholstery.
Organically grown bamboo viscose, in particular, has moisture-wicking properties that make it perfect for comfortable bedding, which is why bamboo sheets and pillowcases are becoming increasingly popular.
When blended with more durable fibers, viscose adds softness and luster to furniture upholstery without sacrificing performance.
The medical industry uses viscose in wound dressings, surgical swabs, and disposable medical textiles.
Its high absorbency makes it effective at wicking fluids, while its softness helps reduce irritation on sensitive skin.
Viscose's biodegradability also provides environmental advantages for single-use medical items.
Viscose is used in various industrial applications, including filters, conveyor belts, and reinforcement materials.
Thanks to its adaptable nature, it can be engineered to meet specific needs, like increased wet strength or tailored filtration performance.
Viscose requires extra specialized treatments to enhance its performance characteristics for industrial products.
In beauty products, viscose is used in face masks, makeup removal pads, and cleansing cloths.
Its absorbency and soft texture make it gentle on skin while effectively holding product or removing makeup.
The biodegradability of viscose makes it an environmentally friendly alternative to synthetic materials in disposable beauty products.
To better understand viscose's position in today's textile market, it's helpful to compare its performance characteristics with both natural and synthetic alternatives.
With its various pros and cons, viscose is better than some fabrics and worse than others, depending on how it is made and its intended use.
The table below shows how viscose compares to sustainable fabrics such as Lyocell, natural fabrics such as silk and cotton, and synthetics like polyester.
| Property | Viscose | Lyocell (Tencel) | Silk | Cotton | Polyester |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Origin | Semi-synthetic (wood pulp, bamboo, etc.) | Semi-synthetic (wood pulp, eucalyptus) | Natural animal fiber (silkworms) | Natural plant fiber (cotton plant) | Synthetic (petroleum-based) |
| Production Process | Chemically intensive, uses sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide; not closed-loop | Eco-friendly, closed-loop with NMMO solvent (Tencel brand); fewer hazardous chemicals | Traditional, labor-intensive | Mechanical or chemical; high water usage | Fully synthetic, energy-intensive |
| Feel & Texture | Soft, smooth, drapes well; "art silk" | Very soft, smooth, drapes like cotton, finer than viscose | Luxurious, soft, lustrous, smooth | Soft, breathable, can be coarse or fine | Smooth, can feel plasticky |
| Breathability | Highly breathable, cool to wear | Highly breathable, excellent moisture-wicking | Breathable, temperature-regulating | Highly breathable, absorbs moisture | Not very breathable |
| Moisture Absorption | More absorbent than cotton, but less than Lyocell | Absorbs 50% more moisture than cotton, wicks well | Good moisture-wicking | Absorbs moisture, dries slowly | Low absorbency, dries quickly |
| Durability | Moderate; weak when wet, prone to wrinkling and pilling | Strong (even when wet), resists wrinkling, durable | Strong, but can snag, deteriorates over time | Durable, especially when wet | Very durable, resists shrinking and wrinkling |
| Care | Needs gentle washing, can shrink/stretch | Easy care, machine washable, less wrinkling | Needs delicate care, hand wash or dry clean | Machine washable, easy care | Very easy care, machine washable |
| Hypoallergenic | Generally skin-friendly, but chemicals may irritate | Hypoallergenic, gentle on skin | Naturally hypoallergenic | Generally hypoallergenic | Not hypoallergenic, can irritate skin |
| Sustainability | Depends on production process; can be polluting | More sustainable, closed-loop, biodegradable | Biodegradable, but animal welfare concerns | Biodegradable, but water/pesticide use | Not biodegradable, microplastic pollution |
| Cost | Affordable | More expensive than viscose/cotton, less than silk | Expensive, luxury material | Affordable | Affordable |
| Best For | Affordable fashion, bedding, drapey garments | Activewear, bedding, eco-conscious fashion | Luxury garments, scarves, bedding | Everyday wear, bedding | Sportswear, outerwear |
Many people confuse Viscose and Lyocell because they are both regenerated cellulose fibers derived from wood pulp, but they are not the same thing. The main differences between the two lie in their production methods and impact on the environment.
Conventional viscose uses carbon disulfide in an open production system, although some modern viscose producers have adopted closed-loop systems similar to Lyocell's approach. However, Lyocell's production process, which uses N-Methylmorpholine N-oxide (NMMO), is inherently less toxic than even improved viscose processes that still rely on carbon disulfide.
Both fabrics offer similar drape, breathability, and absorbency. Lyocell is much stronger, especially when wet, and has better moisture management. Tencel™ (the branded version of Lyocell) has FSC certification to demonstrate that it is made using sustainable forestry practices.
The effect on the environment varies significantly between conventional viscose and eco-friendly viscose using closed-loop systems, with the latter contributing to Lyocell's reduced environmental footprint.
Viscose was originally developed as a more affordable alternative to silk, hence its early marketing as "artificial silk."
The production processes differ completely. To make silk, you need silkworms to spin cocoons, which are then harvested and unwound. Viscose relies on chemical processing of wood pulp.
Here are the key differences between viscose and silk.
Both materials raise different concerns. Silk production involves animal welfare questions, while viscose manufacturing creates environmental and worker safety issues.
Viscose and cotton have similar uses in clothing, bedding, and textiles, but cotton is a natural fiber, whereas viscose is a man-made material.
Organic cotton is a far more eco-friendly fabric than viscose, but conventional cotton is less so because it also requires chemicals (122,481 tons of pesticide annually) to grow, and vast quantities of water (51 Trillion Liters annually) for irrigation.
Cotton is the better choice for durability (especially when wet), breathability, hypoallergenic comfort, and easy maintenance. Viscose beats cotton in terms of softness, drape, affordability, and moisture absorption in hot climates.
Polyester is one of the worst fabrics for the environment. Like many synthetic materials, it's made from non-renewable fossil fuels.
Its petrochemical composition means polyester can take centuries to decompose, compared to viscose, which biodegrades within as little as 6 weeks.
Worse still, polyester releases microplastics during washing and when in landfills, which pollute waterways, kill wildlife, and even end up in our drinking water.
There are also significant differences in the properties of the finished fabrics, such as the following.
Polyester is inexpensive, which is why it is so widely used in fast fashion markets. While viscose is far from perfect, it is undoubtedly a more eco-friendly option than polyester, especially when produced sustainably.
